Alla Wolf-Tasker on her colleague’s decision to stop farming his prized wagyu.

Australia’s wagyu producers were amongst our very first ‘from the paddock’ entrants. The stellar produce from David Blackmore was already familiar to most of the judges and in our blind tastings it continually ranked No. 1.

Blackmore had pioneered the production of 100% full-blood wagyu in Australia and had imported more than 80% of the wagyu genetics into this country. His wagyu herd grazed the green pastures and river plains of the high country near Alexandra, was bred, fed and marketed by Blackmore and exported to 14 countries.

David Blackmore had already made inroads in developing an environmentally sustainable supply chain, following a natural slow production process that took 4 years to complete. His innovative approach had already led to best practices beyond the requirements of Australian regulatory bodies in the areas of animal welfare, land quality and water efficiency.

Blackmore had, however, heard the various concerns raised over wagyu farming and was determined to do more, all the while stilling naysayer suggestions that further sustainability improvements would stall growth and be detrimental to the herd. He set about creating a new single standard that could set a new benchmark for on-farm feeding and animal production.

With 25 animals per 5 acre paddock Blackmore’s rejection of a feedlot environment for his cattle and a return to their natural pastures meant he now had control over the environment in which the animals were raised and control over their humane management and welfare. Blackmores eco-feeding® standard implemented the maximum best practise standards for animal production, once again far exceeding industry requirements.

In 2013 Blackmore was named Legend by the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. The Legends Program honours people, who have given a lifetime of passion and outstanding dedication to the food and wine industry and celebrates professionals who have enriched and contributed to the vibrant food and wine culture through making a significant difference to the way the industry operates. It would seem that there was much to celebrate – stellar globally acclaimed produce and benchmarking global sustainable best practice. It was with considerable disbelief that I learnt yesterday that David Blackmore has given up his fight and withdrawn his application before Victoria’s planning minister to continue farming his way. Blackmore will in fact cease farming and his prize herd will be moved interstate.

What fight you might well ask? Newly arrived neighbours and a government that seems out of touch with best practice sustainable agribusiness have combined to create a prolonged and seemingly unwinnable battle despite petitions from many of Blackmore’s supporters. A lack of vision, no eye for innovative practice and the inevitable ensuing red tape have broken the back of yet another enterprising innovative farming concern. Victoria punches far above its weight in food production it also has the potential to lead the world in innovative best practice sustainable small scale agriculture.